Wednesday, April 30, 2008

Rolling and Cutting Fresh Pasta

Now that you've made the pasta dough, you probably want to do something with it. Sure, it looks cute on the counter but, it'll be tastier as actual pasta. I learned a lot since the first time I used a pasta roller, so it's been getting easier, and more fun, for me.

Attach your pasta roller to your work surface. Divide the dough into eight portions. (If you're good you can do it in six portions. I just have a tough time dealing with the dough once its gets too long.) Work with one portion at a time, keeping the others covered in plastic wrap or under the inverted bowl.

Flatten the dough portion with your hands to make a roughly rectangular shape, about 5 inches long. Pass the dough through the rollers at it's widest setting without pulling or stretching it at the other end. Drape the dough over your hands as much as you can. Using your thumbs risks puncturing the dough.

Lightly dust one side of the strip with semolina flour (you wondered where that was coming in to recipe, didn't you). Fold the dough strip into thirds, like a letter, folding the new flour inside and making a rectangular shape. Feed the dough strip through the roller at least six times, each time folding the dough, pressing out the air, passing it through the rollers, and dusting with semolina flour.

Set the rollers to the next notch. Flour the strip lightly on both sides and pass it through the roller without folding. A fairly well-shaped rectangle will form. Fix any breaks by pinching the pasta together.

Feed the dough through the rollers, once on each remaining setting. If the dough starts to stick, dust it with flour again. If you're making a thicker noodle, such as spaghetti or fettuccine, only go up to the next to the last setting.

Lay the strips on dry dish towels for five to ten minutes, keeping them covered with more towels, until the dough is slightly dry. Don't leave it for too long or it will make it hard to cut. Because I have a small kitchen, I'll drape towels, and the rolled pasta, over the backs of my kitchen chairs instead of taking up the much needed counter space.

Cutting the Pasta

To be cut properly, Fresh rolled pasta must be slightly dry, but not too dry. If it's too dry, the pasta will become brittle and break apart when you cut it. Work quickly so you can avoid this problem. If the pasta dough is drying too quickly, cover it with a slightly damp dishtowel while it's waiting for you to cut it.

Most rollers have cutter attachments of varying widths, making this part easy. If the dough sticks in the cutting rollers (it's not dry enough), dust it with a little flour. Conversely, if it's too brittle and the cutter won't grab the dough, try cutting off the edge of the dough to get rid of the most brittle part.

And even simpler way to cut fresh pasta is to fold it up and cut it in long pieces with a chef's knife to whatever thickness you want. Pappardelle is about an inch wide. Taggliatelle (or fettuccine) are about 1/4 inch wide. Fettuccia Riccia are as wide as papperdelle, just rolled as thick as fettuccine. Quadrucci, which is great in broth based soups, is just taggliatelle cut into little squares.

Maltagliati (literally “badly cut”) are irregularly shaped hand made noodles. Using a sharp knife, cut the fresh pasta into strips, about 2 1/2 to 3 inches wide. Next, cut these strips into triangles or diamond shapes. They don't have to be perfect. That's the whole point of “badly cut.”

Pretty fluted edges can be made by cutting the pasta with a fluted pastry wheel. To make farfalle (bowtie), use a fluted wheel to cut pappardelle, and then cut the noodle across into 2 inch lengths. Pinch each one in the middle to form little bows.

Cook, sauce, and enjoy!

Monday, April 28, 2008

How to Make Fresh Egg Pasta Dough

Now that I've had my pasta roller for a while, and made a few batches of fresh pasta, I'm ready to share the recipe I used. If you've got others, I'd love for you to post them. Mine originally came from Julia Della Croce, but I modified it slightly after watching Chef Todd English on Chef's Story.

It may not seem like it, if you've read the post on the first time I used my pasta roller, but I'd made pasta fresca before. Early last year I made it, more or less regularly, using an extrusion machine. The drive shaft for the extruder got lost somewhere (that's what I get for having my kids do the cleaning up) and I've not used it since. I don't think the results were as good, though. I suspect it has to do with the gluten not developing right during kneading.

Julia Della Croce says that you shouldn't use semolina flour, often marketed as pasta flour. She likes a fine 00 white flour, or all-purpose flour. I use all-purpose flour because it's easier to find in the local grocery store. If you like the flavor of semolina flour, I'd recommend trying different ratios of all-purpose flour, and semolina flour. That's what I'm going to start trying, anyway. In this case, I'm using just a touch at the end.

Ingredients

2 1/2 cups all purpose flour (plus extra for dusting your work surface)
1/8 teaspoon salt
3 large eggs
2 teaspoons vegetable oil (optional)
semolina flour (just enough for the rolling process)

Combine the eggs and oil in a food processor, and pulse two or three times until mixed. Add the flour, a little at a time, until a until the dough starts to ball up. You may not need to use all the flour. If you can't get it to ball up, after all the flour has been put in, add one tablespoon of water and pulse once. Proceed to the next step.

I'm using a food processor to get things started because I've not mastered mixing the dough together on the counter without getting it all over the floor.

Remove the dough from the food processor to a lightly floured work surface. Gently knead the dough until you get a very soft ball. It should be firm enough to handle, but very pliable. Work in a little more flour if you need to. You want it to be soft and responsive, but not sticky.

Using the heels of your hands, flatten the dough ball and knead it from the middle outward, folding it in half after working it each time. Knead both sides, trying to maintain a round shape, until the dough is even and elastic. This should take about ten minutes.

Cover the dough with an inverted bowl or plastic wrap and let it rest for at least 15 minutes, or up to three hours. If it's going to be more than a half hour, I'd recommend refrigerating it.

Try using whole wheat flour along with the all purpose flour. I use 2 cups wheat flour, to 1/2 cup white flour, or sometimes just whole wheat flour. It creates a soft and mildly nutty pasta that's great with light sauces. Heartier sauces mask the delicate flavor.

Next time, we'll go over how to roll and cut the dough, so stay tuned.

Wednesday, April 23, 2008

Master Recipe - Bolognese Ragu

There are some recipes that are important parts of a chef's repertoire. They provide a tool for learning and perfecting certain cooking skills and a foundation for flavor exploration. Armed with such recipes, cooks can easily provide a meal for themselves, of for a large party for family and friends. Because it's pasta month here at “Mormon Foodie,” I wanted to share a fundamental pasta ragu - Bolognese.

Ragu's are rich, meaty sauces, and this one is no exception. Named after the city of Bologna in northern Italy, Bolognese sauce is a rich, meaty mixture of beef and soffritto – a finely chopped mixture of celery, onion, carrot and garlic. I like to serve it with tagliatelle (a cousin to fettucini) noodles, but it would work great with many different pastas, such as spaghetti or penne.

To total prep time for this sauce is about 1 1/2 hours, and serves 6. It can easily be made ahead and kept in the refrigerator for about three days, or in the freezer for up to three months.

Ingredients

1 celery stalk, trimmed
1 medium yellow onion
1 medium carrot
2 cloves of garlic, crushed
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons butter
1 pound ground beef
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons tomato paste
1/2 cup beef stock
1/2 cup red wine
14 oz. can diced tomatoes
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg,
1/4 teaspoon pepper
Parmesan cheese

Finely chop the celery, onion, and carrot. Pour the oil into a large pot, then add the butter. Put the pot on a burner over medium heat until the butter melts and foams. Turn the heat down to low.

Add the celery, onion, carrot, and garlic to the hot oil and cook over low heat, stirring frequently, for about five minutes, or until the vegetables just start to soften, but not brown.

Add the ground beef and break up with a large spoon. Cook until it looses it “redness”, stirring frequently. Sprinkle in the flour and mix well.

Add the tomato paste, beef stock, red wine, nutmeg, salt, and pepper and stir together. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Reduce heat to low to get a slow simmer. Partially cover the pot, making sure that some steam can escape.

Cook for about 1 hour, stirring every 15 minutes or so, to make sure the mixture doesn't stick to the bottom of the pot. If it does start to stick, add a little water and stir well.

When the sauce is ready, it will be thick and glossy. Taste to check the seasoning. If there's excess fat on the top, it can be removed by blotting it up with paper towels. Add more salt, pepper, or nutmeg, if desired (although it shouldn't have an obvious nutmeg flavor).

Keep the sauce warm while cooking your pasta. Pour over hot pasta and mix before serving. Top with fresh grated Parmesan cheese.

Secrets to Success

If you really want this recipe to work, you've got to use a deep, heavy pot. That way, things won't thicken too quickly. Cook the vegetables slowly so they will release their fullest flavors. Don't skimp on the rest of the cooking time, either. Long, slow cooking is one of the secrets of a great Bolognese.

While this recipe lists canned tomatoes, feel free to chop your own fresh ones. I just don't see the point when it comes to long cooking sauces. Save the fresh tomatoes for other dishes.

I listed Parmesan cheese because it's more traditional. I actually prefer Romano. Asiago is a wonderful grating cheese for ragu dishes, too. Fresh cheeses can be expensive, but they're so much better than the pre-grated variety that I can't recommend anything else. You can easily grate them with a box grater. Try slicing thin curls off with a vegetable peeler if you're feeling adventurous.

Red wine is traditional, as well. It's normally recommended that you don't use any wine you wouldn't drink. As a Mormon, I'm not supposed to drink wine anyway, so I make do with the cheaper "cooking" varieties. I think cooking sherry works better with this dish.