Thursday, June 26, 2008

Ahhh, there's the spice rub . . .

When grilling meats and vegetables, enormous amounts of flavor can be added through marinades and rubs. Conventional thinking says that marinades containing some acidic ingredients, like lemon juice, wine, or vinegar, can tenderize the meat. I'm not so sure. Most of the time I find strong versions of such marinades turning the outside mushy and leaving the inside as tough as ever. Rubs, on the other hand, are just dried herbs and spices rubbed into the meat before cooking.

With marinades, you usually leave the meat in the fridge for a some specified period of time to allow the flavors to penetrate the meat. Recently, I learned that you can do the same thing for rubs. Letting it sit for 30 minutes or so in the fridge after rubbing can allow the oils in the spices to better flavor the meat.

There are several commercial rubs and seasoning salts on the market. I'm not normally a big fan of most of them but, recently J&D's Down Home Enterprises sent me samples of their “Bacon Salt” to try. Their claim is that “everything should taste like bacon.” When it comes to grilling, it's hard to disagree. I like the flavor of the meat or veggies to take center stage, most of the time. A smokey bacon flavor can really enhance most grilled meats and veggies, though. I'll tell you more about my experiences cooking with Bacon Salt, next time.

Usually I'll make my own rubs and marinades. With hamburgers I mix the spices into the meat, rather than trying to coat the outside, of course. Here are a few of my favorite blends. All of them use dried herbs, which I tend to favor over fresh when it comes to grilling and convenience. I'll generally be more generous with the herbs when grilling meat, than I do with vegetables. Either way, I don't use so much that it starts to resemble "blackened" whatever.


Italian Herb Rub

Believe it or not, I find this blend works better without the oregano. Some people can't divorce Italian food from oregano, though, so I've included it as an option. This rub is great with just about anything. If you're feeling adventurous, Try lightly grilling thick slices of beefsteak or halved Roma tomatoes with this seasoning.

1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon crushed basil leaves
1 teaspoon ground marjoram
1 teaspoon ground thyme.
1 teaspoon crushed oregano leaves (optional)


Cajun Style Rub

Okay. I admit it. I mostly use the store bought variety for this. When you're in the mood to kick it up yourself, though, you might give this combination a try. I really like this with fish or chicken. I also like it over grilled corn on the cob, although my wife and kids aren't thrilled with it that way.

2 teaspoons oregano
2 teaspoons paprika
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper (or more if you like it hotter)


Rosemary – Garlic Rub

This is a classic. I love rosemary, but I don't like the texture of the hard slivers of dried rosemary. My solution was to buy a spice grinder to grind it into powder. This works well with just about any meat or fish. My favorite use for this rub is to brush some olive oil on 1 /2 inch slices of potatoes or zucchini, then add a bit of the rub and grill until crisp tender. Very yummy.

2 teaspoons ground rosemary
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper


Scandinavian Rub

This is wonderful on fish and just about any grilled vegetable, especially zucchini. It seems like it would be great on pork, too, but I've not tried it that way yet.

2 teaspoons crushed dried parsley
1 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon mustard powder
1/2 teaspoon ground caraway
1/4 teaspoon mushroom powder (I dry and grind my own)
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 teaspoon dried dill weed

And now, with apologies to William Shakespeare,

To cook — to grill.
To grill — perchance to eat: ahhh, there’s the rub!

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Gentlemen, start your grills!

Outdoor grilling is an American institution. Utah's no exception. It's a rare summer weekend that you don't find grill smoke wafting up from half the backyards in the neighborhood.

Ahhhh, the smell of charcoal and grilled meat. The true sign that summer has arrived.

It's interesting to me that the outdoor grilling is associated with men, more than women. It's almost like our wives and mothers have said, “The kitchen is mine so, if you want to cook, you'll have to go outside.” It reminds me of when I was a kid. “John, stop watching TV and go outside.” It seems like the women in our lives can't stand to have us in the house. Maybe they think we'll set the kitchen on fire.

The irony is that professional cooking is dominated by men. I take that to mean that as long as we're make money, it's okay for us to be in the kitchen.

I'm not going any farther with that. My wife has a wicked backhand.

Grilling may appeal to men because of the association with the primitive. There's just something about playing with fire and eating meat that makes us happy.

Grilling let's us be competitive, too. Don't kid yourself. The title of “Best Grill Master on the Block” may not come with an awards ceremony but, we all compete for it. The reason we don't talk about it openly is because we're all afraid we aren't the grill masters we pretend we are.

Ladies? If you want to emotionally devastate your man, just tell him the neighbor grills better steaks than he does. Please don't do it. Just smile and nod while you're trying to choke down that latest burnt offering. He may not thank you openly but, it's better than the alternative.

The other aspect of grill competition is the fight over “charcoal vs. gas.” Charcoal seems to offer more control over at least one thing. You can keep one side of the grill hotter than the other. It also seems to be easier with a charcoal fire to add hickory chips or some other wood to give the food great smoky flavor.

Then again, lighting the coals, waiting for them to get to the right temperature, and then cleaning up later, seems like a lot more time and work. Gas grills make all that easier. Just plug in the hose and fire it up. I suspect that it doesn't pollute the atmosphere as much, either. I'm not 100% sure about that one, though.

The charcoal side thinks the gas side is a bunch of pansies who haven't mastered fire. The gas guys don't do “real” grilling, they say. On the other hand, the gas side thinks the charcoal side is a bunch of filthy Neanderthals who can't seem to embrace new, cleaner, technology. I think they're both right.

Be that as it may, I currently favor gas. My wife threw out our old portable gas grill (why? WHY?) so I'm going to have to get a new one in the next day or two. I don't know. Maybe I'll try charcoal and learn to embrace my inner Neanderthal, instead.

I once made the mistake of talking to my wife about the whole Neanderthal charcoal vs. modern gas thing. She told me not to worry about it. I was a gassy Neanderthal. I don't think she's talking about the grill. Maybe that's the real reason women send us outside.

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

Teriyaki Salmon

Being landlocked in Utah, good seafood is hard to find. That gets compounded by the fact that I served some time in the US Marines on the Atlantic coast. I know what truly fresh seafood is supposed to taste like and ... well ... let's just say that good seafood is harder to find in Utah than it is in Virginia.

Halibut is my favorite but, I can rarely find it at my grocer not frozen as hard as a rock. I'm not a fan of frozen fish. Besides, it's kind of pricey on a family budget. Still, anytime I can find a reasonably priced fish at my local market, halibut or not, I'll probably buy some.

This week was a perfect example. They had fresh salmon on sale for $3.99 a pound. (Fresh is a relative term, by my way of thinking.) I guess they had overstocked it or something. My local grocery store butcher/fish monger said it was selling pretty well. At that price I can see why.

My wife and kids love salmon. It's their favorite fish. I like it too so, for the first time in my life I bought enough to have for dinner and to sock some away in the freezer for later. Like I said, I'm not a big fan of frozen fish. It's been years since I was on the coast, though, and I wasn't going to pass it up for that price.

So I made Teriyaki Salmon for dinner tonight. It's a really quick fix, which makes it perfect for a weeknight meal, or any other day you don't have much time. It turned out quite well and everyone liked it. Including my younger kids.

As with everything I make, this version isn't quite authentic. I prefer to add lime juice, instead of rice vinegar, to offset the sweetness of the teriyaki sauce. I think it gives the dish a lighter flavor.

Ingredients

3 pounds salmon fillets
1 /3 cup bottled teriyaki sauce (Kikkoman's is just fine)
3 tablespoons lime juice
2 cloves garlic, minced
olive oil
dash of salt

Skin the salmon and cut into 6 fillets. If you like the skin, by all means leave it on. I suspect it makes for a more tender fillet. I take it off because my kids make “icky faces” and won't eat it, otherwise.

Put the fillets in a large bowl and pour the teriyaki sauce and lime juice over the fish. Spread the minced garlic evenly over the fillets. Do not add the salt. There's plenty of salt in the teriyaki sauce. If you add more, the fish will lose it's juices. Toss gently and let marinade for about 30 minutes on the counter. Go prepare the side dishes while you wait. (We had a tossed salad and buttered rolls.)

Heat a large skillet on medium-high. Add the oil and heat until shimmering. Shake off the excess marinade and put the fillets in the hot pan. Reduce heat to medium and cover. Cook for about 4 minutes and turn the fillets over. Sprinkle with the merest dash salt. Cover and cook for an additional 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, and the pan. Let rest for about 2 minutes (this completes the cooking process without overcooking the fish).

Serves 6.