Sunday, July 26, 2009

The Salt of the Earth

It seems pretty obvious, but salt is essential in the kitchen, and for life. For cooking, or table side as a condiment, it's a staple in every pantry, in every part of the world. It can be stored indefinitely, and it's recommended that you include 8 pounds of salt, per adult, in a year's supply in food storage.

As basic as it seems, though, there are more varieties of salt than you may be aware of.

Table Salt
This is a refined salt with added anti-caking and, sometimes, bleaching agents. Most of it comes from mines and is ground to a fine crystal. Table salt is used for cooking and at the table as a finishing salt, as it's name suggests. It is free flowing and has a very tiny crystal size.

Often, table salt contains added iodine. In the 1920's people weren't getting enough iodine in their diets. This led to terrible thyroid problems so, it was decide to add trace amounts of iodine to salt to make sure we got enough. Seafood and sea salt naturally contain trace amounts of iodine, and so people who eat lots of seafood, or use sea salt, don't have to worry about iodine deficiencies.

Kosher Salt
Kosher salt is used in meat preparation according to Jewish dietary guidelines, and has less additives that regular refined salt. It's crystal shape tends to be more “flakey,” dissolves easily, and has a less pungent flavor than most other salts.

Sea Salt
Sea salt is also less moisture sensitive, and stores well. It usually contains trace minerals, including iodine, that can also be beneficial to your health. My favorite sea salt actually comes from Utah, Redmond Real Salt. It's salt left over from the ancient lake Bonneville that filled prehistoric Utah Valley, and which the Great Salt Lake is but a remnant. It won the “Best Taste” award in 2004 from Chef's Best.

Grinder Salt
Grinder salt is a refined salt, used for finishing or cooking, and made specifically for use with a salt grinder. It's low moisture content allows it to flow freely. Personally, I'm not sure why anyone would need a salt grinder when Kosher salt or sea salt are available. If you do use a salt grinder, though, make sure you use one with ceramic or plastic grinding mechanisms. The salt will corrode metal (even stainless steel) and ruin the flavor.

Gourmet Salts
There are several gourmet salts that are becoming more popular these days. They come from very traditional production methods they world over, foodies are now rediscovering many of these salt varieties. Harder to find, and more expensive, that most varieties, I lump them together into a signel category. They include, but are not limited to:

Kala Namak – an unrefined mineral salt from India, with a sulfuric flavor.

Celtic Sea Salt – hand harvested from the coast of Brittany, France, using no metal.

Fleur De Sel – a premier artisan sea salt, harvested from the surface of salt evaporation ponds. Different areas of the world produce different flavors based on the mineral content of the water.

Grey Sea Salt – is a “moist” unrefined sea salt, usually from coastal France, and is considered by many to be the best quality salt available.

Hawaiian Alaea Sea Salt – volcanic baked red clay is added to this salt, enriching it with iron oxide (rust). It is said to be mellower in flavor than most sea salt.

Hawaiian Black Lava Salt - harvested from above ground pools that formed beause of lava flows, purified volcanic charcoal is added to this salt both for color and its detoxifying effects.

Smoked Sea Salt – a relatively new invention, salt crystals are smoked over a wood fire to infuse them with a natural smoky flavor.


Picture by Steve Woods

Friday, July 24, 2009

This is the Place – for Fast Food

Happy Pioneer Day!

Pioneer Day is a holiday where my fellow Utahans and I celebrate the coming of the Mormon Pioneers to the Salt Lake valley. We celebrate with parades, fireworks and, of course, food! I'm going to be busy with my kids (they'll be marching in a local children's parade) and work (no day off for me, I'm afraid), so I probably won't pull my grill out until tomorrow.

That's okay. I've got plenty of may favorite sausages thawing in my refrigerator, getting ready to go. I think I may try grilling tofu this year, too. I know, the Utah Pioneers didn't have tofu on the march from Illinois, but not all Mormon immigrants came from Europe, either. There are plenty that have come from Japan and other parts of Asia.

See? When it comes to food, I can justify anything.

Today is also National Drive-Through Day. Why the US Census felt we needed a day to celebrate fast-food drive-though service, is beyond me. Still, it has become an American institution. Goodness knows I've driven through enough of them in my lifetime. As much I'm trying to limit my fast-food exposure, it's not something I see myself stopping entirely in the near future.

Maybe after I'm dead. Which may happen sooner than later if I keep eating fast-food.

In any case, the combination of the two holidays has given new meaning to Brigham Young's words when the Pioneers first crossed the mountains into the Salt Lake Valley, “This is the place. Drive on.”

Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Summer Cookouts and Burn Offerings

I don't know why I've not done as much blogging about grilling this summer. It's not like I haven't fired up my grill a time or two this year. We had a great time celebrating Independence day with grilled sausages and American potato salad. Pioneer Day, Utah's birthday, is coming up this weekend so I'll probably pull it out for that holiday, as well.

So why haven't I done it more? Or blogged about it? You got me.

It's my second year moving to charcoal. I have to admit it's been a lot of fun cooking with fire. Part of my likes cooking with charcoal more than propane. I like the smokey char it delivers. I'm pretty convinced it's not as good for the environment, though. Which side of me will win? The inner arsonist or the tree hugger? The jury's still out. I suspect that if I continue grilling as much as I am, that I'll end up getting bigger grills and using them both. Why decide if I don't have to?

I really like grilling in the summer. Even though there are moments when I have to pay attention, most of the time I get to set up a reclining deck chair on the patio, grab a soda, and let the smoke waft around me. I get to relax, something in short supply these days, waiting for the food to cook.

If I'm working on something that's going to take more time, I may grab a book to read while enjoying the sun and shade. At times like this, my girls will sometimes join me in their own patio chairs for a “sit and chat with ol' Dad.” What doting father could ask for more?

What can I say? Some days it's good to be the cook.

There's something primal about cooking with fire. Maybe that's why Steve Raichlen calls his newest show Primal Grill. It appeals to the primitive in us. Something deep in our DNA connects with the basics of fire and food. If you think about it, the sparks coming off that fire may be the very sparks of the first human civilization. Being able to cook food was a big step in our evolution as humans.

Food and fire played a big part in early sacrifice, as well. Adam built an altar for such things, and the Israelites observed the practice of the burning a sacrificial lamb, looking forward to the Messiah.

Of course, I don't think we should confuse their sacred burnt offerings, with the typical “burnt offerings” many of us will be taking off our grills this weekend. Especially if I fall asleep in the reclining deck chair.

Sweetie? Go grab Daddy another soda, will you?