Monday, March 26, 2007

Perfect Sticky Rice


In my last post I mentioned that I make pretty killer rice. What I mean is that I've learned a way to make rice that is perfect for Asian dishes and stir-fries - anytime you need a sticky rice, really. It's dirt simple, and works every time. I combined a couple of different techniques, one from chef and restaurateur Ming Tsai, and the other from a guest chef working with Julia Child. I wish I could remember her name.

Before I used this technique, cooking rice was hit or miss. Usually, I'd check it and there would still be too much water left, so I'd let it sit longer and end up burning the rice. Now I get perfect rice every time.

Let me warn you that this recipe doesn't work well for other dishes. This is sticky rice, so it's easy to eat with chopsticks, unlike the non-sticky variety for rice pilaf or other kinds of rice dishes.

This technique works for every variety of rice I've ever tried it on, as long as you don't mix varieties. Some strains of rice absorb water at different rates and I've gotten unpleasant results when mixing two different kinds. It also requires no real measuring on your part, so leave your measuring cups in the cupboard. The one thing this does require is a bit of time, and a marginally watchful eye and nose.

First, get your favorite pot and put in as much rice as you need for the next meal. I make a lot of rice at a time. Keep in mind that rice expands to about three times its normal size, so don't fill the pot more than 1/4 of the way up. You want to leave a little room at the top.

Rinse the rice in cold water until the water runs mostly clear, at least three times. This gets rid of any dirt and excess rice gluten. That way you get rice kernels, instead of a glob of rice mush.

Next, put in enough fresh water to cover the rice and let it sit for 20 minutes. Then clean the rice as above one more time.

After you've drained the water off the rice, put the pot in the sink under the tap. Put one of your hands, palm side down, into the pot on top of the rice. Put in enough water to just cover the base of your middle knuckle. This is what Ming Tsai refers to as the "Mount Fuji method." You're bringing the water to the base of Mount Fuji. (Thanks Ming!)

Add about a 1/4 tsp of salt, depending on how much rice you're cooking. The reason to add salt now is not so much to help it boil, but so you don't have flat tasting rice.

Cover the pot and put it on the stove over high heat, just bringing it to a boil. It amazed me how many people do not cover their pots when heating. It helps keep the heat in so it will come to a boil faster.

Turn the heat down to medium low. Keep your eye (and nose) on the pot. A glass lid can really help. If it starts to boil over a bit, just pull the lid off and let some of the heat escape. Check it every so often. When you just start smelling rice, use a spoon to pull a bit of rice to the side and check the bottom. If there's no excess water (and there probably won't be), take it off the heat and let it sit, covered, for five minutes.

Now you have perfect rice for Asian dishes!

I always make more rice than I'll need. Leftover rice is always welcome in my house for quick meals. If the rice gets a little dry, just put a tablespoon of water in with the cooked rice and reheat it in the microwave. It really does bring it back to life.

Improvised Mutant Enchiladas

My mother is a good cook. My friends used come over around dinner time because her food. I think she had more influence on me becoming a foodie than she planned. She never gave me formal cooking lessons, mind you. It was just her simple dishes, and killer results, that got me interested.

My Dad's not too bad in the kitchen, either. I remember a time when I was younger and my Mom was in the hospital. Dad took over the cooking that week. I was more than a little nervous. Here was a guy that worked in construction. Sure, he knew his way around a hammer and saw like nobody's business. Pots and pans? Who was he trying to kid?

I was wrong. He had the courage to introduce a skeptical pre-teen boy to stewed tomatoes. Thank you, Dad. They were the first, and best, stewed tomatoes I've ever had.

I think my Dad's courage in the kitchen wore off a bit on me, too. He gave me the courage to improvise.

I love to try out new ideas. Cruelly, I try them out on my family and friends. Still, the age old conundrum faces me just like it faces every other cook. What to do with the leftovers?

If the dish is particularly bad, I'll throw it out. At a certain point it's just not worth trying to salvage. Leftovers are great for lunches, but after few days of eating the same thing every day, it's time for some change. Sometimes you can use leftovers to build different, and better, dishes.

Let me give you an example. Last weekend we had a potluck dinner with some friends. I made up a huge amount of vaguely Spanish / Mexican flavored rice. I cooked up a bunch of rice and stirred in some crushed tomatoes, garlic, onion, chili powder, and so on. I would have added some red pepper flakes, but some people don't handle the heat very well so I'm always careful when cooking for others.

The problem I have cooking rice is that I make great Asian sticky rice but, I can't make the non-sticky variety very well. After making the rice, and stirring in all the other bits, I put it in a low temp oven to keep it warm, adding to the sticky factor. It was thick enough that, if you didn't have worry about the flies, you could probably use it to patch holes in sheetrock. It tasted okay, but just okay. Needless to say, there were a lot of leftovers.

I didn't want to throw it out, but it was obvious it wasn't going to get eaten by itself. I had to do something.

Summoning my father-given courage, I mixed together beef stock with some vegetable juice, chili powder, garlic, parsley, and lime juice to make a thin sauce. Next, I smeared sour cream over the top of flour tortillas, dropped in some of the leftover rice fiasco and a bit of grated cheddar cheese. Then I rolled the whole thing up like a burrito. I made about six of these.

I then poured a thin layer of sauce in the bottom of a roasting pan, and stuck the rice burrito things next to each other like the mutant concoctions they were. I poured the rest of the sauce over the mess and added some more grated cheese on top for good measure. Then I popped them in a 400 degree F oven until the cheese was melted and gooey, and the sauce had thickened a bit. Periodically I'd spoon some of the sauce from the pan over the top of these weird things just to keep the tops from drying out too much, and get the juices everywhere.

They were a hit! My culinary improvisation allowed me to save the day, and use up a good deal of leftovers, making an easy Sunday meal. My kids kept asking "What do you call this, Dad?" I didn't have a clue what to call it. I think I settled on "Mexican Leftover Surprise." The surprise part is that they had nothing to do with Mexico. Not really, anyway.

I think I should have stuck with "Mutant Enchiladas."

Monday, February 19, 2007

Fry Sauce Recipe

Green Jell-O may be listed as Utah's official snack food but, if you think it's the only Utah food culture export, you’ve really missed the mark. Another Utah food culture claim to fame is the ever popular "fry sauce," a regional condiment served with, you guessed it, French fries.

The Arctic Circle fast food chain claims to have invented it back in 1948. They keep their secret recipe locked away in a safe.

Some people claim that fry sauce is really just Thousand Island dressing, renamed. Hey, it's got catsup and mayo in it, right? Nothing could be further from the truth, though. Thousand Island dressing has pickles and stuff in it. It’s chunky and weird. Fry sauce is smooth and yummy. Most of the time, anyway.

At one point Utah was the "fry sauce" state. You just couldn’t get it anywhere else. If you asked for fry sauce at most cafés and fast food joints outside Utah, the server would look quizzically at you and say, "Isn't that what catsup's for?" That's not the case, anymore. Years ago Arctic Circle expanded its fast food chain outside of Utah and now claims that they go through more of the stuff in Washington and Oregon than they do in Utah.

Arctic Circle isn't the only company to get in on the fry sauce craze, though. Carl's Jr., Hires Big H, Apollo Burger and The Training Table all offer their own variation on the popular pink stuff. Up until 1999 Utah’s McDonald's franchises offered it. They quit carrying it though, citing high spoilage rates because of the mayonnaise. If they couldn't keep it from spoiling, they must not have used much. It must have been pretty crappy fry sauce

Fry sauce has hit the grocery stores, too. One Utah entrepreneur decided to make his own version and sell it. Sure enough, "Some Dude's Fry Sauce" can be found on most grocery store shelves in Utah. I’m not kidding. That’s what he calls himself – "Some Dude." He even markets a few variations. You can get "zesty" or a "bbq" versions, if you want them. Not wanting to be left out of the profit loop, Arctic Circle and Hires Big H have started bottling their own concoctions and selling them on store shelves, as well.

The Basic Recipe

This is so simple it hurts: 1 part catsup to 2 parts mayonnaise. Some say it's half and half, but it's not quite the same that way.

As a foodie, I'm just not satisfied with the basics, though. I've gotta play with it a bit. I wanted to find the best fry sauce I could, while still maintaining the spirit of the original. To that end, I enlisted the help of my three daughters as victims ... erm ... taste testers! We grabbed a bunch of ingredients from the grocery store (if we didn't already have it in the refrigerator), and started experimenting.

We didn't use everything we could think of, and avoided most of the variations I'd heard of before. We didn't try barbeque sauce, for example. Mostly that's because we didn't have any in the fridge and I forgot to pick it up at the store. We also creating a data sheet. This was going to be a scientific study, so we needed to track the data for each round of experiments.

Next, we cooked up some French fries. I'm basically lazy so we just got some frozen ones at the store and cooked 'em up in the oven. Yes, I know. All of you French fry purists out there are whining, ”You should have deep fried them!” I don't care. This was about finding the best sauce, not the best fries. I wasn’t going to peel, cut up, and deep fry a bunch of potatoes just for this bit of nonsense.

We started experimenting with the basic recipe, in a couple of different ratios. We also swapped the catsup out for chili sauce in a few of them. (Yum!) I mixed them all up on old yoghurt cups (don't worry, they got washed first) and labeled the cups with letters - A through D. We ran out of clean cups and had to start using mugs. Some of our samples were labeled "Blue rimmed mug," "Snoopy mug,” “red cup” and “pink cup” and the winning "square bowl."

Once we settled on the best ratios, we started playing around with other ingredients. We added garlic powered (which everyone loved), Worcestershire sauce (which everyone hated), in various combinations and tried them out. I think we went through nearly the entire bag of frozen French fries testing each combination.

Our winning experiment, created after hours (okay, it was really about 45 minutes) of endless (four) trials, is as follows:


Super Newman (not Paul's) Fry Sauce recipe

1/4 cup Ranch dressing
1/4 cup chili sauce
1/4 tsp garlic powder
Dash of liquid smoke

Mix completely and serve with hot French fries.

It's probably good on hamburgers, too.


Now It’s Your Turn

There are a few variations you could try with your own fry sauce experiments. Try using barbeque sauce instead of catsup, add buttermilk to thin the mixture, add various seasoning salts, try adding some horseradish mustard, or whatever else you can think of.

It's not all been fun, though. After a long morning of eating fries and tasting fry sauce with my daughters (the fun part), I've sworn off French fries and fry sauce for the next month or so. I'm so sick of fry sauce I could scream.