Showing posts with label Ingredient Essentials. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ingredient Essentials. Show all posts

Sunday, June 5, 2011

Is MSG Safe?

MSG FRESHLY PACKED IN LARGE JARS, spices, herbs, seasoningsWith the discovery of glutamate receptors in the tongue, showing that glutamate is a taste (umami) and not just an “enhancement,” the question of whether MSG is safe to use rears its ugly and confused head.

What is MSG?

First, let's define what we're talking about. Monosodium glutamate, or MSG, is the free form sodium salt of glutamic acid. Glutamic acid naturally occurs in many fermented or aged foods, including soy sauce, fermented bean paste (miso), and cheese. It's also found in asparagus, tomatoes, corn, peas, and even human milk.

Glutamic acid was identified in the year 1866 by Karl Ritthausen, in German chemist. Later, in 1907, Kikunae Ikeda, a researcher at theTokyo Imperial University, identified it in the brown crystals left behind after the evaporation of kombu. These crystals of glutamic acid reproduced a flavor he detected in many foods, especially in seaweed. Professor Ikeda called this flavor umami. He went on to patent a method of mass-producing a crystalline salt of glutamic acid: MSG.

MSG and Chinese Restaurant Syndrome.

The question of MSG's safety began in April, 1968. Robert Ho Man Kwok wrote a letter to the New England Journal of Medicine stating:

“I have experienced a strange syndrome whenever I have eaten out in a Chinese restaurant, especially one that served northern Chinese food. The syndrome, which usually begins 15 to 20 minutes after I have eaten the first dish, lasts for about two hours, without hangover effect. The most prominent symptoms are numbness at the back of the neck, gradually radiating to both arms and the back, general weakness and palpitations...”

In 1969 this syndrome was attributed to the flavor enhancer glutamate, largely due to the widely-cited article "Monosodium L-glutamate: its pharmacology and role in the Chinese Restaurant Syndrome" (CRS)* published in the journal Science, that year.  It became known under the names "Chinese food syndrome" and "monosodium glutamate symptom complex."

Symptoms attributed to the Chinese restaurant syndrome are rather common and unspecific. They have included burning sensations, numbness, tingling, feelings of warmth, facial pressure or tightness, chest pain, headache, nausea, rapid heartbeat, bronchospasm in people with asthma,drowsiness, and general weakness.

The Science of MSG Safety

Finding reliable studies on the safety of MSG had been a struggle. As with all things on the net (including this article), lots of people seem to quote lots of other people and then say, “See? This shows I'm right” regarding their position on the safety of MSG. Oddly, people on both sides of  the argument quote the same studies as evidence as being for their position, and against the opposing one.

The problem with many of the studies that  show MSG is the cause of  CRS symptoms, an association has never been demonstrated under rigorously controlled conditions, even in studies with people who were convinced that they were sensitive to the compound. A 2002 study, for example, found that rats fed on diets supplemented with 10% and 20% pure monosodium glutamate suffered retinal degeneration, possibly through glutamate accumulation in the eye. The problem is,  these amounts are more than 10 times higher than those used for flavoring or naturally found in foods prepared for human consumption.

The one constant seems to be MSG sensitivity. Some people are sensitive to it, and others aren't. Those that are sensitive should avoid it. Those that are not sensitive, can enjoy it in moderate amounts.

My Take on MSG

After reading doing the research, and reading the hype on both sides, I've decided to throw my hat in with the MSG is generally safe at normal consumption levels crowd. I've never suffered when eating MSG laden food at Chinese restaurants. It's not just Chinese food, though. You're likely to get as much glutamic acid from eating pizza with tomatoes and Parmesan cheese as you are moo goo gai pan.

Does that mean I'm going to rush out and buy a bottle of MSG? No, but not because it isn't safe. I simply don't need to. It's already found in ingredients I commonly use to help flavor foods, such as meat stocks and cheeses. I don't add any ingredient to my foods unless there's a reason. If I don't need the MSG to make things taste good, why buy it?

For more information on MSG, and another foodie's take on the MSG safety issue, I found the  following websites to be useful, or at least entertaining:

If MSG is so bad for you, why doesn't everyone in Asia have a headache? - The Guardian

Monosodium glutamate (MSG): Is it harmful? - The Mayo Clinic

Monosodium glutamate: Poison the body to better the taste! - Worldwide Health Center (this is a commercial site, but the posted article was interesting)

Research on MSG – Feingold Association

MSG Myths (video) – Web MD

*Note that CRS, Chinese Restaurant Syndrom, should not be confused with the other kind of CRS that so many of us face as we get older: Can't Remember .... what was I talking about, again?

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

How to Store Rice

As many rice varieties as there are, when it comes to food storage they can be boiled down (Sorry. Bad joke.) to two basic kinds: white rice and brown rice. Cooking and storing them are very similar, but there are some important differences that should be noted.

About Rice

As a cereal grain, rice is one of the most important staple foods for a large part of the world. It is second highest in worldwide grain production, right after corn. Most corn isn't grown for human consumption though, so, as far as humans are concerned, rice is a big deal.

As the seeds of the rice plant are first milled, removing the touch outer husks, we are left with what we think of as brown rice. Further milling to remove the bran, bran residue, and cereal germ, leaving only the endosperm, gives us white rice.

Nutritionally, brown rice packs more punch than white because of the fiber and other nutrients found in the bran and germ. There is also a small amount of fat in the germ, meaning that brown rice can spoil more easily than white rice. For this reason white rice is favored by most long-term food storage experts.

White rice is sometimes buffed and/or treated with glucose, flour, or talc to improve it's appearance. It can also be enriched with various compounds to improve it's nutritional content. Many of those methods involve dusting it with powders that wash right off when you rinse the rice to clean it so, I don't think it's worth bothering with.

Rice is a good source of protein, but it is not a complete protein. It needs to be combined with other protein sources such as beans, soy, nuts or seeds to complete the essential amino acid profiles as found in meat. Classic beans and rice, without the meat added, is an excellent vegetarian protein source.

Storing Rice

All rice is best stored hermetically sealed, with the oxygen removed, in a cool, dry place. Simple oxygen absorption packs can be used when storing, but I don't know that they are especially needed with white rice, unless you plan on keeping it for a very long time. I believe in rotating my food storage, eating what we store, so when we do it right, it never lasts more than one year.

Cool means around 70 degrees Fahrenheit or less. Even under those conditions, brown rice will start to go rancid in about 6 months. Storing brown rice below 60 degrees, or even freezing it, will extend the shelf life considerably. White rice will last between one and two years, without freezing.

Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Couch Tomatoes

Aren't fresh, garden ripe tomatoes wonderful things? Too bad you can't get something that good at the grocery store. Tomatoes can be had year round at major grocery stores, but they don't often have much flavor. Canned tomatoes make a good substitute and are best canned in their own juice. Other tomato based products are sometimes called for in recipes to add richness and depth to the dish.

Tomato Sauce
There are all kinds of variations of tomato based sauces. Usually they are served as part of the dish, not as a condiment. Tomato sauces are quite common for use with meat and other vegetables, and are probably best known for pasta dishes.

Sun-dried Tomatoes
Sometimes tomatoes halves, sometimes smaller pieces, dried tomatoes are often packed in olive oil. Sometimes they are sold loose. You can easily make your own if you have a food dehydrator. It's a lot less expensive that way, as well. They're great in salads, sauces, stews and pasta dishes.

Tomato Paste/Puree
Packed with rich tomato flavor, tomato paste is often used to add flavor and color to sauces, soups and stews. Sun-dried paste is slightly sweeter and more mellow in flavor than traditional reductions.

Tomato Powder
Beyond canned pastes and sauces, tomato powder is an interesting long-term food storage option. It is normally mixed with water to dilute it to the desired thickness. It can also be added strait to soups stews in lieu of tomato paste.

Crushed Tomatoes
Whole and diced canned tomatoes are great products, but crushed tomatoes are available as well. They are particularly useful in sauces, soups, and stews, lending a smooth, thick consistency. Add a few herbs and spices, such as basil, garlic and black pepper, crushed tomatoes make a delicious and quick tomato soup.

Photo credit: Agata Urbaniak

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Mustard (Seed) Faith

“... If ye have faith as a grain of mustard seed, ye shall say unto this mountain, Remove hence to yonder place; and it shall remove; and nothing shall be impossible unto you.” - Matthew 17:20

Mustard seeds are small, hard and delicious. Faith can be the same way. Both can be expressed in a many different flavors, colors, and textures. Everyone has their favorite. When I was ten, my favorite was, “Colonel Mustard, in the Pantry, with the Candlestick.”

All forms of mustard, except the last one mentioned, can be used in cooking or as a condiment. The three main varieties, featured here, show off a range of contrasting flavors and textures.

Yellow Mustard: The good old standby, it is moderately spicy and slightly vinegary. It's used most often as a condiment adorning hot dogs or soft pretzels. It can also be found in some dressings, such as the dressing for American potato salad.

Dijon Mustard: More sophisticated in flavor, this strong mustard is made from the hottest of mustard seeds and a bit of white wine. It is often used in sauces, dips, dressings, mayonnaise, and marinades.

Course-grain Mustard: One of my favorites, the flavor is usually mild, but some varieties are quite hot. Some are a bit vinegary as well. It is often used as a substitute for Dijon, giving a milder flavor and crunchier texture.

Horseradish Mustard: Usually a course-grain mustard mixed with a little horseradish, this mustard has a pungent kick. Another favorite in my house, it's used mostly on bratwurst and other sausages, as well as beef.

Dry Mustard: Very hot and pungent, mustard powder is often added to sauces, dips, dressings, and marinades. It can also be mixed with cold water or white wine and used as a paste in lieu of Dijon mustard.

There are plenty more varieties of mustard, of course. Trying different brands and mixtures can be quite an adventure. Just have a little faith.

Photo by Magda S.

Sunday, June 13, 2010

Sauces and Preserves Provide Instant Flavor


To add a quick jolt of flavor to a dish, whether it's at the table or during cooking, bottled sauces and preserves can really help. A dash of soy sauce or a few drops of Tabasco can instantly transform the flavor and character of a dish. There are a huge variety of bottled sauces on the market. Which ones to keep on stock are a matter of personal taste.
Tabasco Sauce
A fiery hot condiment made for a secret recipe involving hot peppers, this sauce is a favorite in many kitchens. It can be used in almost any dish where a kick of spicy heat is desired. Adding a few dashes to scrambled eggs gives flavorful life to an otherwise ordinary breakfast.

Horseradish Sauce
Traditionally, horseradish is mixed with vinegar and cream to make this pungent sauce. It can be added to beef, cold cuts, smoked fish, chicken and eggs quite easily to add a strong kick to the dish.

Worcestershire Sauce
A piquant, salty sauce with tones of black pepper, anchovies, molasses and tamarind, Worcestershire can be added to many foods, sauces, marinades, and dressings. Try sprinkling a few drops on simple cooked vegetables, such as peas or green beans when served as side dishes to roast beef or veal to add complexity and help them stand up to the full flavors of the roast.


Tomato Ketchup (Catsup)
A unique blend of tomatoes, vinegar, sugar, and spices, ketchup has been a staple in American kitchens for decades. Besides using on hamburgers and fries, it is often added to dressings, stews, relishes and other sauces. It is a base for of one of three different types of barbecue sauce (the other types using either mustard or vinegar). In some western states, it is mixed with mayonnaise to make fry sauce. My own fry sauce replaces the ketchup with chili sauce.

Soy Sauce
There are several blends of soy sauces and each has it's own characteristics. Chinese soy sauce is mild, dark, and has a strong salty flavor. Japanse soy sauce is less salty, and slightly sweet. It is a common ingredient in many Asian dishes and stir-fries. Think of it as Chinese ketchup.

Chutney
There are as many flavors of chutney as there are curry powders. Some are sweet and fruity; others are hot and spicy. Chutney is used in many Indian dishes, dressings, and sauces. Chutneys can also make a great accompaniment with cheese or in combination with mayonnaise.

Fruit Jams/Jellies
Not just for sandwiches, fruit jellies can be add sweetness and color to gravies and sauces, especially those served with pork, poultry, and game meats. Red current jelly is a classic, but plum jam is a less expensive, and more flavorful alternative.

Mayonnaise
A stable emulsion of oil and vinegar or lemon juice, mayonnaise has been used for years in Europe and America as a sandwich spread; egg yolks are the most common emulsifier used. It's mild flavor is often enhanced by adding various herbs and spices. As the popularity of mayonnaise has grown, different countries have created their own unique variations.

Photo by OhWoww!

Thursday, April 8, 2010

For the Love of Vinegar

When stocking your pantry with vinegars, think well beyond the distilled white stuff. Mostly I use that to treat sunburns, never adding it to foods. For culinary uses, I prefer a few other vinegars. You know, something to add flavor, not just bite.

Wine Vinegars
Red and white wine vinegars are mild and fruity. Sherry vinegar is more nutty. Each has a distinctive taste and are great for regular use in salad dressings, sauces marinades.

I like using red and white wine vinegars in the same context as their parent wines. Red and sherry vinegars for more hearty pairing, and white for more delicate effects.

Balsamic Vinegar
While technically a wine vinegar, balsamic vinegar deserves it's own mention. It's sweet, strong and a little musky, being aged in oak barrels. There are many grades of balsamic vinegar, mostly based on age and source. The price can vary wildly from grade to grade, even into hundreds of dollars for a small bottle of the well aged “pure stuff.” Much of what is sold in American supermarkets is actually balsamic vinegar that has been diluted with other wine vinegars. Balsamic vinegar is lovely in many applications. It pairs well with fruit, as in the classic strawberries and balsamic vinegar.

Apple Cider Vinegar
Strong and acidic, this is a favorite of mine when preparing vinegar based barbeque sauces, and other exceptional pairings. Pork dishes (such as roasts or pulled pork) do well with marinades that include apple cider vinegar, but it's also interesting when used to make pickles and some dressings. Reported to have many health benefits, some people take a teaspoon or two of organic apple cider vinegar diluted in a cup of water every day.

Rice Vinegar
One of the most mild vinegars, I use rice vinegar as an alternative to white wine vinegar for some dressings. It's a must when making sushi and my first choice when making other Asian dishes requiring a vinegar marinade.

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Essential (Kitchen) Oils

Don't let the title fool you. We're not talking about aromatherapy. We're talking cooking oils.

While the sunlight, shining through rows of multicolored oil bottles, may look pretty in your kitchen, the truth is there are only a few different cooking oils you need to get the most out of your cooking.

That and you shouldn't keep your oils in the sun. They'll go rancid really fast that way. You should store your cooking oils in a cool, dry, dark, place like your kitchen cupboard, or even in the refrigerator.

Speaking of refrigerators, olive oil will solidify at low temperatures. That can be good and bad. It's good in that you can then use tasty solidified olive oil on your toast as a healthy replacement for butter. It's bad because your dressings will have to sit on the counter for quite awhile before they become liquid, again.

I think of cooking oils as falling into two categories: oils for cooking and oils for finishing. Heating oil degrades its flavor, so I don't tend to us more flavorful, and expensive, oils for frying. On the other hand, oils used as a dressing, or added right at the end of cooking, can go a long way to creating a silky mouth feel and great flavor.

In my kitchen, there are four basic oils I keep on hand:

Canola Oil
With a very neutral flavor and high tolerance for heat, Canola oil is my “everyday” cooking oil. It's the modern replacement for vegetable oil or sunflower oil, being low in saturated fat and high in monounsaturated fats. Let's keep no illusions here, though. In most cases, Canola oil is a genetically modified food (GMO). It's actually rapeseed oil. It got it's name from Canada, the country of it's invention, hence the capital “C.” Some people claim that it's just as healthy as olive oil. Others claim is deadly because the extraction process uses hexane. I think they're both wrong or are at least exaggerating things. While light olive oil would be a more healthy choice, it's more expensive. I've chosen to keep both on hand.

Olive Oil, Light and Virgin

Olive oil has a mild, almost fruity flavor, but brands vary wildly. There's no argument that the omega-3 content is good for you. The trouble is that it doesn't stand up well to very high temperatures, making it unsuitable for deep frying or high temperature stir-frying. It's great for general frying and many other uses, though.

There are several varieties of olive oil, depending on which pressing the oil is coming from. “Virgin” olive oil has good flavor, and low acidity. It is less refined than “light” olive oil, which has less flavor. Olive oil loses much of it's flavor when heated enough for sauteing. That reason, coupled with the extra expense, makes olive oil a secondary choice for me for everyday use. If I'm making a Mediterranean dish I favor it over Canola oil. Or whenever the mood strikes me.

Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Extra Virgin olive oil comes from the very first cold pressing of the olives. It has so much more character than light olive oil, it makes me wonder how they came from the same fruit. Strongly flavored, it is peppery and fruity. I use extra virgin olive oil as a finishing oil, drizzling it over hot foods before serving. It's also excellent in most dressings. I rarely saute things with it, though, as much of it's flavor is compromised when heated, not to mention the extra expense.

Sesame Oil
Sesame oil is a lightly flavored oil that has been used in Asian cuisine for thousands of years. It's high in omega-6 fatty acids and keeps well at room temperature. Light sesame oil has a high smoking point, making it suitable for deep frying and other high temperature cooking. It is also, unfortunately, expensive. Dark sesame oil does not hold up to heat as well, however. Because of the expense, I only keep dark sesame oil on hand, using it as a finishing and flavoring oil when I prepare Asian dishes. Its strong flavor means a little will go a long way.

Why not peanut oil?
I've been known to buy peanut oil from time to time. It's great when cooking many Asian dishes, and does well when stir-frying. The problem is that it's generally expensive, and loses most of it's character when heated so, I rarely buy it.

Photo by Pawel Kryj

Sunday, November 15, 2009

8 Grains a Week

I love most grains, especially rice. I really do. The more I cook them, the more I learn about them. They are a staple food in my pantry, and for long term food storage.

There are dozens of varieties of rice, of course. I can't tell most of them apart by looking. I've got to check the package. There are other grains I love, too, and I like to alternate them in recipes. Most are easy to cook and make a pleasant change in some dishes. I certainly don't recommend eating them raw unless you can get them fresh.

Here are eight common varieties of grains. After all, variety is the spice of life ... right along with nutmeg and turmeric.

White Rice
A refined grain, white rice has been hulled to remove chaff (the outer husk of the grain), and then further milled to remove the bran and germ. It can be stored for a very long time, but lacks certain nutrients.

White rice acts as an accompaniment to, or ingredient in, more dishes that I can count. Long-grain, medium grain, and short grain varieties are available, though I prefer short and medium grain rice. There are more varieties of white rice than you can shake a stick at. Basmati is a famous type of long-grain rice, while Calrose rice is the most common form of short grain rice, accounting for 90% of rice consumed.

Brown Rice
Similar to white rice, but not as refined, brown rice still contains the bran and germ of the grain. It has a nutty flavor and is rich in vitamins, minerals and protein. As with white rice, there are long and short varieties available. It does take a little longer to cook than white rice, in order to soften the bran layer.

Instant Rice
An alternative to white or brown rice, the grains are milled, polished, fully cooked, and then allowed to dry. Unfortunately, this results in significant loss in flavor and texture. The grains never stick together, however, and are quick and easy to cook. Mostly, it's available in long and medium grain varieties.

Wild Rice
Not actually related to the rice plant, wild rice is the seed of any on of four species of grasses that grow well in shallow water or slow-moving streams. Three of these varieties are native to North America, while the other is native to China.

Wild rice is highly nutritious and has become quite popular. In spite of some difficulties in it's domestication, it is now widely cultivated throughout American and Canada. In China, however, it has lost its importance and is now hard to find. Because of the increasing population, and difficulties in domestication, most of its habitat has been converted to regular rice cultivation.

Cracked Wheat
This wheat product is made by crushing raw wheat kernels, or cutting them into smaller pieces. As a whole grain, it is rich in fiber in nutrients. Many people use it in breads, as a base for vegetables or meats, like couscous, or tossed with green salads.

Bulgur
Similar to cracked wheat, bulgur is made by toasting and steaming wheat kernels until the husk is cracked, and then dried. It is very popular in the Mediterranean and Middle East. It is often used in pilafs and tabbouleh.

Millet
This small-seeded cereal grain group shares agricultural and food function, but is actually any of several unrelated grasses. Interestingly enough, millet has similar nutritional content as wheat, making it totally appropriate for people with coeliac disease, and other forms wheat or gluten allergies and intolerances. It should not be eaten in large quantities, though, especially by anyone with thyroid difficulties.

I most enjoy cooking it with rice, at a one to one ratio, in the same pot. It has a mildly sweet-nutty flavor and creates a nice texture variation when combined with the rice.

Corn (Maize)
Most often, corn is eaten fresh, canned or frozen. When dried it can be ground into flour, or made into a favorite, low calorie snack – popcorn. Maize is also one of the most common genetically modified (GM) and transgenic crops. Most of what you buy in todays supermarkets, marked or not, is GM corn.

While maize is seen as a staple food, what's not alwats understood is that cultures that use it that way either soak it first in lye (that's where hominy grits come from) or eat such a balanced diet around it, including lots of beans, that it didn't matter. Without lye, the niacin in corn is not liberated, resulting in niacin and certain protein deficiencies. Once that process was understood, high lysine varieties were developed.


Photo by Poohsayhi

Sunday, October 25, 2009

Dried Herbs - A Primer

Fresh herbs are generally better for things like salads and sauces, but dried herbs have an honored place in my kitchen. Dried herbs are often better in dishes like stews, casseroles, and other dishes that require long cooking times.

Unless you're growing your own fresh herbs, dried herbs are also more readily available in most supermarkets. They seem to cost less, too.

Dried herbs are also better for food storage. They should be stored in airtight containers, in cool, dark places. Sunlight and heat will compromise the flavor and quality of dried herbs, so keep them away from your stove until you need them. Depending on who you talk to, dried herbs can be kept this way for anywhere from a year, to five years, without significant flavor deterioration. If you've got containers of dried herbs older than that, get rid of them.

Dried herbs add great aroma, color and flavor. The drying process concentrates the flavors of the herbs, so you really only need about half as much when substituting dried herbs for fresh ones.

Here are six common herbs and one common herb blend I recommend for most pantries.

Basil
One of my favorite herbs to cook with, basil has a sweet and spicy flavor, with just a hint of mint – the dried form a bit more so than the fresh. Traditionally partnered with garlic, basil is used in salad dressings and long-cooking Mediterranean sauces and casseroles. Tomatoes and basil are match made in heaven. It's almost as if God had them both in mind during the creation.

Bay
Dried bay leaves have a pungent, resinous flavor and are well suited for long cooking times. They are excellent for inclusion in most stocks, soups, stews, and sauces. They are part of the traditional bouquet garni and are commonly used for infusing white sauces with savory flavors. They are also great with fish. I like to break them apart into a couple of pieces before adding them to a dish, to maximize the flavor. Just make sure to remove them before serving.

Dill
Dried dill is less pungent than fresh dill. It has a subtle, almost anise like tone. Traditionally it's used in marmalades, dressings, and other Northern and Eastern European dishes. It is excellent paired with cucumber (thus, the famous dill pickle), fish and root vegetables. I like adding a pinch to scrambled eggs.

Oregano
Dried oregano has a powerful, almost spicy flavor. A variety of wild marjoram, oregano is used in many Mediterranean and Italian dishes. It's especially good with tomato dishes, pasta sauces, and sprinkled on pizza. It is also frequently used in Mexican cooking.

Rosemary
Dried rosemary has a pungent, spicy, almost refreshing flavor. Dried rosemary is different from most herbs, in that it is milder than its fresh counterpart. I love using it in casseroles and marinades for lamb, pork, or chicken. I like to toss it with roasted potatoes, too. It's common to many Italian dishes and is used to flavor many breads. What I don't like is how hard the spines of it can be. Crushing dried rosemary under a rolling pin easily solves this problem, and helps release its flavors. The aroma is intoxicating!

Sage
Dried sage has a subtle, slightly bitter flavor. It's good with most meats, especially fatty pork, duck, and sausages. I like using it occasionally with beef stew or as part of a rub for roasts. It can also be good with some egg and cheese dishes. Use it sparingly, though. Too much will ruin a dish.

Italian Herb Blend
A blend of common herbs, this is a great shortcut for adding flavor to almost any savory dish. Typically it's a mixture of marjoram, oregano, rosemary and thyme. I like using it in sauces, stews, and cooked tomato dishes. It's also great sprinkled over pizza.

I've got a spice primer posted around here, as well, if you're interested.

Photo by Tijmen van Dobbenburgh

Friday, September 25, 2009

Virgin Coconut Oil from Tropical Traditions

Not too long ago the Tropical Traditions company sent me a bottle of their Gold Label Standard organic virgin coconut oil. I was excited to try it. I'd never cooked with coconut oil before, but it could easily become a welcome guest in my kitchen.

Coconut oil is harvested from the meat of the coconut in much the same way olive oil is harvested from olives. You smash it to death in mill. While my Northern European ancestors relied more on animals for their oils and fats, in the form of butter and lard, coconut oil was a primary source of fat for tropical regions.

While most coconut oil is harvested from dried coconuts, virgin coconut oil is not. Instead, fresh coconuts are minimally processed, helping the oil retain a coconut flavor and smell. Virgin coconut oil is regarded as the highest quality coconut oil and is preferred for cooking.

Coconut oil is thought to be healthier than some other fat sources, possibly due to it's smaller molecular size and blending of both saturated and unsaturated fats. It is thought to help in weight management and preventing arteriosclerosis and heart disease. I was surprised to find that it has slightly less calories than other fats, 117 calories per tablespoon vs. 120 calories per tablespoon. Not a huge difference, I know, but it did surprise me.

Virgin coconut oil melts at 76 degrees Fahrenheit, resulting is some unusual opportunities for the home cook. When I first got the bottle in mail, it was a liquid. After sitting in my air-conditioned house for awhile, it turned into a something like soft butter. Putting some into the refrigerator created a very hard, almost waxy lump. After letting it sit on my counter for a time, it softened up nicely.

Cooking with it has been a joy, except in one case. The literature said it was great as an oil for frying, but I wasn't happy with it that way. I like frying with high heat and I think it may have gotten burned, much like butter can. It gave the dish a “cheap” flavor I wasn't happy with. I can't say it was the oil's fault, for sure, because I never tried it again when frying.

What I used it most for was as a condiment. I often used it as a replacement for butter on my morning toast, or mixed some in my oatmeal. Added to a peanut butter and honey sandwich it was remarkable. Replacing the olive oil with coconut oil in a mustard vinaigrette was interesting. It lightened the flavor and added a nice variation to my staple dressing recipe. It became so hard in my refrigerator, though, I started keeping the dressing in the cupboard. I don't like waiting an hour to dress the salad. Because it has a higher saturated fat content than olive oil, I think it helped extend the dressing's shelf life, though, and I never had a problem with rancidity.

Where I truly fell in love with it was in baking. It gave a richness of flavor to the breads I baked that I simply didn't get with butter or cooking oil. It's no wonder to me, though. The coconut flavor is light and creamy, compared to the heavier flavors imparted by something like olive oil. I think I like it even better than butter!

The downside to my new love is that, like any woman who is lovely, virtuous, and of good report, she ain't cheap. Tropical Traditions Gold Label Standard retails at $37.00 a quart, making it a hard choice for most budget gourmets. That's two to three times the cost of Extra Virgin Olive oil at my grocer. Tropical Traditions does sell it for less, $27.00 a pint, but that's still pricey.

In spite of it's price, I'm curious about it as an effective food storage item. It's said that virgin coconut oil can last up to two years without going rancid, and you can buy it from Tropical Traditions in both 1 gallon, and 5 gallon HDPE plastic buckets, just like the ones I use to store flour, grains, and sugar in. They sell the one gallon buckets for $70.00, and the 5 gallon ones for $230.00. That's got to be better than powdered butter.

Tropical Traditions Green Label Organic Virgin Coconut oil is slightly cheaper, but not enough to make a real difference to my budget. It's machine processed, not made by hand. I don't know what the difference in taste is. Tropical Traditions will sell you dried coconut in bulk, too, and not just that shredded stuff. We're talking lovely flaked coconut. I need to think more about this for food storage, that's for sure.

If you can afford it, you'll want to check out Tropical Traditions Gold Label Standard Virgin Coconut Oil. It's an amazing oil, and I want to thank Tropical Traditions for letting me try it. I wish I could give this product a higher rating, but because of the price, I'm reluctant. But only because of the price. The flavor is incredible, it's uses are amazing. I'm going to have to pick up more of it one of these days. Just not today.

3 1/2 zucchinis
zucchini-review-starzucchini-review-starzucchini-review-star

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Pepper – the King of Spices

Black pepper is nearly as common in cooking today as salt is. At one time, it was so rare a commodity that peppercorns were actually used as currency. While it can be found in Thailand and Malaysia, it's main roots are in the Malabar coastal region of India. It is the oldest spice known, and the most widely used.

Prior to the 1800's, pepper was a luxury item, only affordable to the royalty and the upper classes. Acquiring it was a major force behind the spice trade. Many a fortune was won and lost on this “black gold.”

There are several varieties of pepper and most come from the Piper nigrum. Don't confuse this with cayenne pepper, though. They aren't related. Cayenne comes from chili peppers, not the fruit of the Piper nigrum. Their heat sources differ as well. Cayenne gets its heat from capsicum, while peppercorns get their heat from piperine.

While pre-ground black pepper is available, I recommend getting a decent pepper mill and buying the pepper corns. There are two good reasons that Mormons, especially, should consider this. First, the flavor is much better. Second, like all spices, peppercorns will remain tasty in food storage much longer than ground pepper will. As ground pepper ages, I find it can take on an unpleasant mustiness.

Black Peppercorns
These come from the not-quite-ripe berries of the Piper nigrum vine. After they've reached full size, they are picked and dried in the sun. Enzymes in the berries cause the skin to turn black during the drying process. It has the strongest in flavor of all peppercorns, and is my favorite.

White Peppercorns
These are fully mature, red, ripened berries. After harvesting, the outer skin is rubbed off to expose the smooth layer underneath, and then dried and bleached by the sun. They are slightly milder than black pepper and are favored in white sauces because they don't speckle the food.

I use black peppercorns almost exclusively. I appreciate the flavor and don't have a problem with speckled food.

Green Peppercorns
This variety is picked at the same time as black peppercorns, but they aren't allowed to dry. Instead, they are pickled in a vinegar or brine solution. You can find them freeze-dried and dehydrated, but the dehydrated ones have more flavor. The flavor and heat are less pronounced than black peppercorns and they are the least pungent.

Red Peppercorns
This is a mature peppercorn that still has it's outer skin. They are is often difficult to find outside of gourmet shops, and can be very expensive. They are pungent like a black peppercorn, with a slight sweetness.

Pink Peppercorns
These are actually unrelated to the black peppercorn. They come from the Baies rose plant and are imported from Madagascar. As a result, they are rather expensive. They are pungent and slightly sweet, but don't have nearly the amount of flavor.

Pink Berries
Often called pink peppercorns, which they are not, they aren't related to the black peppercorn or the Baies rose plant. Instead, it's the seed of a plant known as either the Brazilian pepper tree, Christmas berry, or Florida holly, even though it's considered a scourge in that state. I've been told the flavor is more like sweet menthol, but I refuse to eat them. They can cause severe allergic reactions, especially in children, and are toxic when eaten in large quantities. Avoid these.

Mixed Peppercorns
In many gourmet shops you will find a blend of black, white, green, red, and pink peppercorns under the name of a “five pepper blend.” They are used mostly as a condiment or sprinkled on before serving as much for their decorative quality as their flavor.

Sunday, July 26, 2009

The Salt of the Earth

It seems pretty obvious, but salt is essential in the kitchen, and for life. For cooking, or table side as a condiment, it's a staple in every pantry, in every part of the world. It can be stored indefinitely, and it's recommended that you include 8 pounds of salt, per adult, in a year's supply in food storage.

As basic as it seems, though, there are more varieties of salt than you may be aware of.

Table Salt
This is a refined salt with added anti-caking and, sometimes, bleaching agents. Most of it comes from mines and is ground to a fine crystal. Table salt is used for cooking and at the table as a finishing salt, as it's name suggests. It is free flowing and has a very tiny crystal size.

Often, table salt contains added iodine. In the 1920's people weren't getting enough iodine in their diets. This led to terrible thyroid problems so, it was decide to add trace amounts of iodine to salt to make sure we got enough. Seafood and sea salt naturally contain trace amounts of iodine, and so people who eat lots of seafood, or use sea salt, don't have to worry about iodine deficiencies.

Kosher Salt
Kosher salt is used in meat preparation according to Jewish dietary guidelines, and has less additives that regular refined salt. It's crystal shape tends to be more “flakey,” dissolves easily, and has a less pungent flavor than most other salts.

Sea Salt
Sea salt is also less moisture sensitive, and stores well. It usually contains trace minerals, including iodine, that can also be beneficial to your health. My favorite sea salt actually comes from Utah, Redmond Real Salt. It's salt left over from the ancient lake Bonneville that filled prehistoric Utah Valley, and which the Great Salt Lake is but a remnant. It won the “Best Taste” award in 2004 from Chef's Best.

Grinder Salt
Grinder salt is a refined salt, used for finishing or cooking, and made specifically for use with a salt grinder. It's low moisture content allows it to flow freely. Personally, I'm not sure why anyone would need a salt grinder when Kosher salt or sea salt are available. If you do use a salt grinder, though, make sure you use one with ceramic or plastic grinding mechanisms. The salt will corrode metal (even stainless steel) and ruin the flavor.

Gourmet Salts
There are several gourmet salts that are becoming more popular these days. They come from very traditional production methods they world over, foodies are now rediscovering many of these salt varieties. Harder to find, and more expensive, that most varieties, I lump them together into a signel category. They include, but are not limited to:

Kala Namak – an unrefined mineral salt from India, with a sulfuric flavor.

Celtic Sea Salt – hand harvested from the coast of Brittany, France, using no metal.

Fleur De Sel – a premier artisan sea salt, harvested from the surface of salt evaporation ponds. Different areas of the world produce different flavors based on the mineral content of the water.

Grey Sea Salt – is a “moist” unrefined sea salt, usually from coastal France, and is considered by many to be the best quality salt available.

Hawaiian Alaea Sea Salt – volcanic baked red clay is added to this salt, enriching it with iron oxide (rust). It is said to be mellower in flavor than most sea salt.

Hawaiian Black Lava Salt - harvested from above ground pools that formed beause of lava flows, purified volcanic charcoal is added to this salt both for color and its detoxifying effects.

Smoked Sea Salt – a relatively new invention, salt crystals are smoked over a wood fire to infuse them with a natural smoky flavor.


Picture by Steve Woods

Monday, May 25, 2009

How to Make Your Own Biscuit / Pancake Mix

My mornings are busy to the point of not being able to make myself a decent breakfast before I have to trudge off to my day job, let alone eat it before I hit the road. Even cold cereal takes too long. I've started eating at McDonald's a few times a week just get something warm in the mornings, but I can only take their overly salted, rubbery, and preservative laden sausage and egg biscuits for so long. I decided to start cooking my own in advance, so I could microwave them before leaving, saving me money and heartburn.

In order to expedite the weekend biscuit cook-athons, I decide to follow a recipe from Todd Wilber's version of “KFC Buttermilk Biscuits” from his cookbook, “Top Secret Restaurant Recipes: Creating Kitchen Clones from America's Favorite Restaurant Chains” His recipe starts with a box of Bisquick. I didn't want to pay a ton of money for that, so I decided to make my own biscuit mix. I wanted a deeper flavor than the recipes I had had hand for such things, so I kicked things up by replacing some of the all-purpose white flour with whole wheat flour.

Making your own biscuit mix provides a fresh tasting shortcut when making biscuits, pancakes, waffles and muffins. No, it's not health food, but at least it doesn't have all the chemical preservatives you find in the store bought varieties.

Ingredients

6 cups all-purpose white flour
4 cups whole wheat flour
1/3 cup baking powder
1/4 cup sugar
2 teaspoons salt
2 cups vegetable shortening

Directions

Mix the flours, baking powder, sugar, and salt in a very large mixing bowl. Cut in the shortening until the mixtures resembles course crumbs. You can start with a pastry knife, if you've got one, but the best tools I find for the job are a pair of clean, dry, hands.

I chose vegetable shortening because most don't require any refrigeration. This way you can store it in an airtight container for up to 6 weeks at room temperature, or up to 6 months in the freezer.

Easy Pancakes: To whip up a quick pancake batter with this stuff, measure out one cup of the mix into a large bowl. Whip together 1 egg with 3/4 cup of milk. Add the milk mixture to the biscuit mix all at once and stir until blended. Pour about 1 /4 cup of batter onto a hot, lightly greased griddle and cook until golden brown, turning over when the pancake has a bubbly surface and the edges have gone slightly dry. Makes 4 -6 pancakes.

The “KFC Buttermilk Biscuits” I made with this mix turned out even better than the Colonels' original, but you'll have to wait until next time for that recipe.

Wednesday, May 6, 2009

Three Spice Mixes

Ready-made spice mixtures can save time, money, and are pretty useful in the kitchen. The problem is, there are more commercial spice mixes available than Brigham Young has wives. Or children. To compound everything, the quality and composition can vary considerably from one brand to another. What's a foodie to do?

Within the plethora of choices, there are three common blends that are used in a large number or recipes. With these three in your pantry, you're pretty safe when it comes to quick cooking.

Finding quality mixes is important, and expensive isn't always best. For example, I love the relatively inexpensive Sun Brand Madras Curry Powder (such pure and peppery flavor!), but can't stand the more expensive McCormick “gourmet” Madras (Yuck. Did I actually pay money for this? No link for you!).

Sorry. I haven't tried enough brands of the other two mixes to give you a recommendation. Maybe you'd like to leave your own recommendations in the comments.

Which brings us to:

Curry Powder

There are several curry blends, from Indian to Thai. Some are mild, others are quite hot. Curry powder gives curried dishes an authentic flavor that can sometimes be hard to match if you're mixing it yourself. My current preference most everyday cooking is the Madras curry powder from Sun. (It comes in a lovely silver and white tin, not a bottle.) Perhaps you have a favorite curry blend you'd like to share.

Garam Masala

Usually, garam masala is a mixture of cumin, coriander, cardamom, clove, cinnamon, pepper, mace and ground bay leaves. It's quite common in curries from northern India, giving the dish a mild, almost perfumed, quality rather than the more fiery and hot mixtures.

Pumpkin Pie Spice

A traditional mixture of sweet spices, usually allspice, cinnamon, clove, coriander, mace and nutmeg. As it's name implies, it's a common mixture for pumpkin pies, but it can also be used in sweet potato pie, cookies and cakes, to impart a mild kick to the otherwise sweet dish.

Photo by Piotr Bizior

Sunday, March 29, 2009

The Dried Pepper Family

George Santayana said, “The family is one of nature's masterpieces.” It wouldn't surprise me is he was talking about peppers. It's certainly a family that warms my heart.

Dried peppers make there way into our kitchen most commonly through the spice rack, although dried hot peppers can be found if you cruise the Mexican food aisle. Many peppers are made from dried capsicums. This is different from the more conventional black or white pepper, ground from peppercorns. Different pepper products vary wildly in the amount of heat they have so, it's a good idea to know which is which.

Hot Pepper Flakes
Their flavor is quite fiery and there can be a lot of seeds in with the flakes. Use with caution. Sprinkle sparingly over foods before, during, or after cooking to add a kick to almost any dish. Adding a touch to a tomato based pasta sauce, or sprinkling over pizza slices is a great way to spice things up. You can buy them already prepared or you can my your own by grinding dried red peppers in a mortar.

Paprika
This is the mildest of all peppers in the family and can be found in sweet (mild) and hot (Hungarian) forms. Most times the sweet versions are the most versatile, but I favor the hot because of the more intense flavor. Spanish paprika is smoked and they prefer to call it pimentone. Commonly used in Hungarian and Spanish dishes it adds subtle heat and complexity to food.

Cayenne
Made from one of the hottest varieties of chilies (that are edible, anyway), cayenne is used frequently in Mexican and Cajun foods. It adds real heat and flavor so, use cautiously. It is also sold as red pepper.

Chili Powder
Chili Powder is actually a blend of chilies, garlic, cumin and oregano. Different brands will differ in heat, but most are relatively mild. Chili powder adds authenticity and piquancy to Mexican, Indian, and Southwestern dishes.

Photo by Irina Ignatova

Saturday, January 17, 2009

Spice Primer, or, “What's that spice for, again?”

I've heard it said that variety is the spice of life. Given the variety of spices that can be used in food, I can see why.

Spices are different from herbs in that herbs come almost solely from leafy green sources and can be used fresh. Most spices are dried and ground, although there are some exceptions. Ginger, for example, comes from a root and can be used either fresh, or dried.

Freshly ground spices have intense flavor, but they quickly loose their power. Because of this, I prefer buying them in small quantities, not in big bulk containers. This can put you at odds with your long term food storage. If, like me, you're trying to build a year's worth of food storage, buy the whole seeds when you can and then grind them in small quantities to put them in your kitchen. I bought an inexpensive spice grinder just for this. Store your spices, whole or ground, in airtight containers in a cool dark place to help retain their flavor.

If you buy your spice seeds whole, leave them that way until you're ready to use them. The spice seeds can be heated in a dry skillet over high heat for a minute or two to enhance their flavor. Just make sure you keep tossing the seeds around so they don't burn.


Cardamom
Cardamom has a strong flavor and lemony aftertaste. It's used in many Indian and Middle Eastern dishes, especially sweet ones. When bought whole, the seed pods need to be spit open to get to the seeds inside.

Cinnamon
Cinnamon has a subtle, spicy-sweet flavor. It is often used ground to flavor poached fruit, as well as in baking pies, cakes, and cookies. Whole sticks are used to infuse flavor into sugar syrups, custards, apple cider and other spiced fruit drinks and desserts.

Clove
Cloves are highly aromatic and have a slightly sweet flavor. Whole, they are commonly use to stud onions, oranges, and baked hams, both for flavor and decoration. They are also used whole, or ground, in some pickle recipes. Ground clove is also found in some baked dishes and desserts, it adds complexity, offsetting the sweetness in fruits.

Coriander
Coriander is highly aromatic, and has a mild citrus-like accent. Whole seeds, or ground, it's found in many Indian dishes. It's great with poultry and other meats. It's also wonderful with cooked carrots and other sweet vegetables.

Cumin
Cumin has a distinctive, slightly bitter flavor reminiscent of caraway seeds. It is found quite often in Mexican, African, and Indian foods and goes well with chicken or vegetables. I've never found it whole in the supermarket and have been told that it's difficult to crush for use.

Ginger
Hot, pungent, and warming, ginger is one of my favorite spices. It's often found in baking, pickles, and chutneys. It's also a staple ingredient in Indian and Chinese spice cooking, ground or fresh. Candied ginger is quite a treat.

Nutmeg
Nutmeg is another favored spice in my home. It's flavor is sweet, warm, aromatic and surprisingly powerful. It is most pungent when grated fresh and added at the end of cooking. Nutmeg is often used in sweet dishes, savory sauces, and with vegetables. It's the spice that gives Bolognese sauce it's distinctive flavor.

Saffron
Possibly the most expensive spice, saffron comes from the stamen of the crocus flower and must be hand picked. It's slightly pungent, aromatic, and sometimes slightly bitter. Saffron is used to impart a yellow color to foods, as well as flavor. It's found most often in rice and fish dishes, but can also be used to flavor sweet breads and cookies.

Turmeric
Turmeric has a musky, slightly peppery, flavor. I've never found it sold in anything but ground form, but I'm sure the seeds can be had someplace. It's used quite often in Indian curries and bean dishes to give both flavor, and a deep yellow color. Used sparingly, it can also be an alternative to saffron.

Picture by Daniel Battiston

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Beans of Temptation

Dried or canned, beans are a staple food around the world. A legume by any other name, would be just as tasty. Combined with grains, such as rice, beans create a complete protein, making it possible to live without meat.

If you want to, that is.

Seeing as how the political season is over, I think it's a great time to talk about beans. Eating lots of beans is purported to turn you into a politician. Well, at least they fill you with hot air.

Beans are easy to prepare, but the dried variety can take some time. Most need to be soaked before cooking. I have a large supply of dried beans on hand, as part of my food storage, but I'm buying canned beans almost exclusively these days. When you consider how much energy and time goes into cooking them, you're really not saving any money with dried ones. The only advantage to dried is the absorption of flavors in slow-cooked dishes.

If you are using dried beans, make sure you rinse and sort through them thoroughly. A small rock, masquerading as a bean, isn't something you want to crack your teeth on.

Red Kidney beans are staple in Mexican cooking, their bright red skin adds great color to salads or soups. I love them in chili.

Canellini beans are good for most soups and stews, but can also be used in salads. When cooked, they have a fluffy texture. In Italian cooking they're generally referred to as fagioli, but are also known as white kidney beans.

Black beans are my favorite. They're found in all kinds of cuisine, from the Caribbean, to Mexico, to China, to Brazil. I love them slow cooked with rice and ham for added flavor.

Borlotti beans have a creamy texture, making them a favorite in Italian cooking. They're found in many soups and dips. The streaked skin adds a great look to mixed bean salads and bean casseroles.

Adzuki beans have a strong flavor and are great in salads, and mixed with other beans. They're also popular in certain Chinese and Japanese rice dishes and soups. They work well in sweet dishes and form the main ingredient in red bean paste.

Chickpeas are a main ingredient in hummus, falafel, and are commonly found in other Middle Eastern dishes. They're also used in Indian curries and slow-cooked Spanish casseroles. Of all the beans I've cooked, they have the longest soaking and cooking time.

I don't think that Split Peas are technically a bean, but most of the recipes I use them for remind me of bean recipes. Yellow or green split peas can be used in soups, purees, stews, and the like. Green split peas, cooked to a puree with ham, chicken stock, and onions, makes my wife's favorite soup.

I can't imagine that Lentils are actually beans, either, but I could be wrong. They remind me more of mutant split peas than beans. I like them in soups and curries. They're not too bad in salads, either, if you don't overcook them. Cooked too long and, like split peas, they lose there shape and become a puree once known as pottage.

Not everyone likes lentils. Even though I do, I can't imagine why anyone would sell their inheritance (birthright) for them, by Esau certainly did.

Genesis 25:29 - 34

29 And Jacob sod pottage: and Esau came from the field, and he was faint:
30 And Esau said to Jacob, Feed me, I pray thee, with that same red pottage; for I am faint: therefore was his name called Edom.
31 And Jacob said, Sell me this day thy birthright.
32 And Esau said, Behold, I am at the point to die: and what profit shall this birthright do to me?
33 And Jacob said, Swear to me this day; and he sware unto him: and he sold his birthright unto Jacob.
34 Then Jacob gave Esau bread and pottage of lentiles; and he did eat and drink, and rose up, and went his way: thus Esau despised his birthright.


Jacob must have made some pretty tasty beans.

Photo by Marina Nisi

Monday, September 8, 2008

Five Flours

Because I think it's easier to use flour than whole grains for baking, my wife and I have decided to store flour instead of grain when it comes to putting together our one years worth of food storage. That's not to say we don't store grain. Rice is wonderful and I ain't doin' without it in my pantry. We've just decided to forgo the huge bags of storage wheat.

When it comes to flour, there are more varieties than you can shake spoon at. However, there are five main kinds of flour that are available in most grocery stores. Each one is a little different.

All-Purpose White Flour

A staple of the kitchen, all-purpose white flour is used for all kinds of things. Breads, pasta, pastries, batters, and as a thickening agent. Sometimes you'll find it mixed with leavening agents and sold as self-rising flour, but don't buy it that way unless the recipe specifically asks for it. It's available in both bleached, and unbleached, varieties.

Whole-Wheat Flour

I'm not sure why this gets thought of as an alternative to white flour. Didn't it come first? I love whole-wheat flour. It provides a mildly nutty flavor, but can produce a heavier result in most breads. Because it contains fat from the wheat germ, it can go rancid and must be stored carefully. Some people suggest that you store it in the refrigerator.

Bread Flour

Bread flour is the high-gluten version of all-purpose flour. Because of it's higher gluten content, it's said to be better for baking breads. I've never used it. Instead I buy all-purpose flour (or whole-wheat flour) and add wheat gluten when I bake bread. It comes in both white and whole-wheat varieties.

Cornstarch

Most people don't think of flour when they think cornstarch, but that's what it is. This very finely ground flour from corn is normally used for thickening liquids. It's best to mix it with a little cold water to form a thin paste before using it this way, to avoid lumps. It can also be used medicinally in lieu of baby powder. In fact, most baby powder is just perfumed cornstarch.

Cornmeal (Polenta)

I had someone tell me that cornmeal was a grain, once. I don't think so. It might have started like as a grain but it's left that world behind. Cornmeal is ground to varying degrees of coarseness. It's a common ingredient in Southwestern and Italian cooking.

Picture by Stefano Barni

Wednesday, September 3, 2008

How to Store Flour

My wife and I have been working on our food storage. For years, the Prophets and other LDS Church leaders have told us to gather and maintain a years supply of food, in case of emergencies. It started as two years, but I guess they realized that most of us are still too wicked and slothful to do that. So, they toned it back to a year.

My wife and I are nowhere near being done.

We've started though, and that's meant learning how to do it. We still haven't figured it out, but we're getting better at it. Mostly we're getting better at dealing with food storage because of things we've learned from Simply Living Smart, a website dedicated to food storage. They've got some amazing resources there, so I recommend you check them out.

The biggest question for us has been, how do you store flour? Can you even do it for a year? I've found a lot of conflicting research. Some people say that you can keep white flour for up to six months. Whole wheat flour goes rancid after two. Others say it's much longer than that. My own accidental experience tells me that if you store it properly, you can get away with a full year.

Bingo. One years worth of flour.

Okay, John. What about storage wheat? That was all the craze 'back in the day,' right? You get storage wheat, and a wheat grinder.

If you really want to do that, be my guest. Grinding wheat into flour, electrically or by hand, just doesn't appeal to me. What can I say? I'm still wicked and slothful. (Normally I prefer to think of it as knowing my limits than admitting it's a character flaw.)

So, we've decided to go with flour, instead of grain, for storing wheat.

Keep in mind that we're not talking about getting a years supply of food together and then letting it sit in the basement for a year. We're going to be using it throughout the year, replacing things as we use them and rotating the stock.

There are a few issues with storing flour, including the issue of nutritional value. Grains ground into flour lose some of there nutrients over time. It turns out that wheat flour keeps it's nutritional elements intact a lot longer than was previously thought. If you're still worried about it, take a multivitamin.

The other two major issues are bugs and rancidity. Wheat flour has a small amount of fat in it from the wheat germ. Just like other fats, it can go rancid. All wheat has weevil and other bugs in them. Mostly eggs. Other bugs can get into the paper containers you normally buy the stuff in pretty easily, too.

It turns out that you can take three simple steps to eradicate these little monsters, and keep the fat in the wheat germ from going rancid before you use it.

  1. Freeze the flour.
  2. Add dried bay leaves
  3. Store in an airtight container.
  4. Keep the containers in a cool, dry, place.

To freeze flour, transfer it into small, zip-lock type plastic freezer bags, and put it in your freezer overnight. The cold should kill any living bugs and muck with most of the eggs. The zip-lock bag is to keep the moisture out.

Adding a few dried bay leaves to the flour can help cut down on bugs, as well. Most of insects don't like it and I've been told it's actually poisonous to weevil larvae. Just make sure you take the bay leaves out of the flour before you cook with it. I learned this lesson after making a wonderful loaf of bay flavored bread in my bread maker one day.

Make sure your storage containers are airtight. This helps avoid rancidity and creates yet another hostile environment for the bugs. Some people even suggest putting oxygen trapping chem packs in with the flour, but I'm not sure it's necessary. We've chosen to use 20 gallon storage buckets with air tight gamma lids.

How many times have you heard the mantra of the pantry, “Keep it in a cool, dry, place?” Same story, here. Light and heat contribute to fat rancidity and stale food. Avoid those as much as possible.

Here comes the disclaimer. Please keep in mind that I'm not a food scientist, nutritionalist, or otherwise licensed food service worker. I've had no formal training in this. All of this is based on the research I've done, mixed with my own experience. Take my advice for what it is, the friendly kind, not the professional kind. Don't sue me if this doesn't work for you.

Picture by Melanie Martinelli

Monday, April 21, 2008

Organic Pasta on Earth Day

Today is Earth Day! No, that doesn't mean I'll be preparing mud pies for supper tonight. It does mean that I'll be talking about organic food. More importantly for this month, organic pasta.

Grains, in the form of whole grains, breads, or noodles, make up 75% of calories consumed by humans. Fully half of the worlds cultivated land is grows some kind of grain. Conventional wheat production makes use of synthetic agricultural chemicals, while organic rules prohibit such use. While there are certain benefits to organic grain production, there are also problems that are difficult to deal with on a large scale. The efficiency of conventional methods is hard to match when using purely organic ones.

Fortunately, the human health risks associated with the chemicals used in grain production appear to be very small. The problem lies more in environmental issues. Pollution of ground water and soil compaction due to heavy machinery are the biggest issues.

Fortunately, consumer demand has made organic pasta readily available. Twenty years ago we were lucky to even find whole wheat pasta. Today we can get pastas made from a variety of grains and in all kinds of shapes. Most local supermarkets only supply organic pasta in a few forms. Natural food stores have entire aisles dedicated to the stuff. Several national brands, such as DaVinci Italian Organics, are widely available. Local brands are, by nature, more limited. If you're making your own fresh pasta, organic flours can be also be found under brand names like Gold Medal Organics.

One problem many consumers have with the switch from conventional to organic food is the price. Most organic food is much higher in price than its conventional counterpart. Organic breads can be as much as two to three times as expensive as conventional bread. Interestingly, though, organic dried pastas aren't much more money, on average, than conventional dried pastas. Many are available in bulk bins, further reducing the cost.

If you're thinking about going organic, if only for Earth Day, organic pastas may be your first, and easiest, change. Now, go plant a tree.